RESTAURANT REVIEW

BROOKLYN, NY — As a Philadelphian raised on the holy trinity of Angelo’s cheesesteaks, Tony Luke’s roast pork, and the comforting embrace of melted Cooper Sharp, I rarely venture beyond the familiar. But when a trusted friend insisted on a trip to Sofreh, the celebrated Persian restaurant in Prospect Heights, I surrendered to curiosity—and left utterly enchanted.

Helmed by James Beard-nominated chef Nasim Alikhani, Sofreh is a revelation, a place where the soul of Iranian cooking is rendered with both reverence and artistry. The space itself is understated yet warm—high ceilings, black wood beams, a marble bar glowing under soft light. Reservations are fiercely sought after (book weeks ahead), yet the staff makes every guest feel like family. Before I could introduce myself, the host greeted me by name: “Delgreco, we look forward to serving you.” Such grace sets the tone for the evening.

We began with the Eggplant and Whey Dip, a lush, smoky spread crowned with crispy onions and drizzled with mint oil. But the true showstopper was the Barbari bread, a Persian flatbread so pillowy, so perfectly blistered, that it could single-handedly justify the trip. Tearing into its warm, sesame-studded crust, I understood why bread is sacred here.

For the main act, my friend chose the Dried Lime & Herb Beef Stew, a deep, tangy marvel of braised beef, kidney beans, and citrusy Persian limes. But my heart—and appetite—belonged to the Lamb Shank, a dish so sublime it bordered on spiritual. The meat, braised until it surrendered to the slightest nudge of a fork, swam in a fragrant broth of dill and dried lime, each spoonful a symphony of warmth and spice. Paired with saffron-kissed rice, the lamb was butter-soft, its richness cut by the bright, herbal notes of the broth. This wasn’t just dinner; it was an epiphany.

Sofreh doesn’t just serve food—it offers an education in Persian hospitality, where every detail, from the minimalist decor (a canvas for the vibrant dishes) to the impeccable service, feels intentional. As I left, already plotting my next visit (perhaps before a Nets game at Barclays?), I realized Sofreh had done the impossible: made a Philly guy forget about cheesesteaks, if only for one glorious night.

Rating: ★★★★☆ (Exceptional)
Sofreh — 75 St. Marks Ave, Brooklyn, NY | http://www.sofrehnyc.com | Reservations Essential